arduino – Made by Mikal

Thermostat (or, its happening again)

Post author:mikal
Post published:July 7, 2010
Post category:Arduino

This is just a quick post at the moment because the project isn't done and I am distracted by other things... The thermostat for the central heater in my house became unreliable a week or two ago. My wife rang around and a new one from the manufacturer of the heater was going to be $450 AUD. So, it seemed obvious to make my own. I've just installed the 1.0 of it, with the board layout and manufacture being done by Doug once again. Other people seem to lack a PCB manufacturing back neighbour. I highly recommend you acquire one if possible.

Building a hygrometer with a HS1101

Post author:mikal
Post published:January 23, 2010
Post category:Arduino

The next sensor I wanted to add to my home was a set of hygrometers. Specifically I wanted an exterior one, and a matching interior one. This would be useful as we have evaporative cooling, and if the humidity level outside is already high, then it doesn't make a lot of sense to put extra water into the air. Worse than that, it can also damage my books and make the house really clammy. So, adding some sensors was the first step in some form of alerting. I picked up two HS1101s from ebay quite cheaply (about $4 each IIRC). These devices are capacitors whose capacitance varies proportionally with relative humidity. You also need to provide a temperature at the sensor to correct the value, although the correction is pretty minor so I guess you could skip this if you really wanted to cut costs. Given I have plenty of code for Dallas 1820s now, I just dropped one of those onto the board too. I just used the circuit from the data sheet for my design, with a few simple tweaks (like the DS1820). Here's my surprisingly unprofessional circuit diagram: The DS1820 stuff that's not on the data sheet…

The Beer Fridge saga continues

Post author:mikal
Post published:January 2, 2010
Post category:Arduino

Since the last update on the beer fridge, we've had to do some murdering of the original PCB to get it to fit in a case. In addition, we'd failed to take into account the startup power draw for the compressor (5 amps), and had to upgrade the relay we're using from a 3 amp solid state relay. Luckily Doug had the beefier relay just sitting around in his shed. That means we've lost our opto-isolation because the new relay is a simple mechanical one, but we have a relay coil doing the same thing now. A new PCB will make the world a lot neater, which will be nice. Oh, we've also been mentioned on Hack a Day, which has generated some interesting comments on their site. I've observed that sometimes the relay doesn't turn on, even though the arduino thinks it has done so. An example can be seen here: (Note that graph is a Google chart server image, generated by a simple visualization program I wrote in python. If you're that way inclined, the visualization software is in my public SVN repository). At first we thought this was a software problem with comparing ints to floats, but…

Thinking about arduino as a prototyping platform

Post author:mikal
Post published:December 30, 2009
Post category:Arduino

So, I've mentioned in earlier posts about arduino projects that I consider the arduino to be a prototyping platform, and a damn good one at that. Hack a day seems to think of it in similar terms. It was really Doug who got be thinking in this direction with the initial PCB design for the fridge controller project, which includes space for an Atmega CPU right on the PCB, thus eliminating the need for a relatively expensive arduino board to be permanently consumed. So I started to wonder how hard it would be to build a simple arduino replacement board. It wouldn't need the complicated USB hardware, as you could program the Atmega on a full arduino board before installation. It would just need a time source, perhaps a LED, and a voltage regulator. You can see in the picture above a version I quickly whipped up on a breadboard to prove this is possible. I didn't bother with a voltage regulator in this version, and the wires off on the right go off to a power source. This quickly turned into a PCB prototype board design, which has a voltage regulator, and exposes all of the arduino digital pins…

Arduino with the kids: Cricket Noise Door Bell

Post author:mikal
Post published:December 29, 2009
Post category:Arduino

When I was a child, I had a doorbell at my bedroom door to ward off uninvited guests. My six year old, Matthew, has always been pretty enthused about building things, and so he wanted to give an electronics project a try. I thought this would be a good project to start out with for the kids, because its relatively simple, and there is a tangible result at the end (you press a button and something happens). Matt liked the idea. Because this project involved a fair bit of soldering, it turns out that Matt spent most of his time taking photos of the work, although we talked about what was happening at each step. I need to think harder about how to get him involved in the construction process -- I think that will be easier once the bread boarding stuff from ebay arrives. The design is relatively simple. I took the sample debounce circuit (a button, 10k resistor) and software and ran that first. Then we put a peizo buzzer across pin 13 and ground. That meant that with the sample software we had both a light and a noise when you pressed the button. Unfortunately, the pin…

Beer fridge controller 0.3

Post author:mikal
Post published:December 24, 2009
Post category:Arduino

Last night Doug made up the first cut of the PCB for the beer fridge controller mentioned in previous posts, and we fitted the arduino to it. There wasn't much in the way of software changes, apart from changing the pin that the compressor runs on. You can see here that we've mounted both the arduino and the Ethernet shield onto the PCB -- this is just temporary until we get the PCB right. The black rectangle at the front right is a 240 volt capable relay, and the thing behind it is a 240 volt transformer which is capable of powering all the electronics on the boards. In the final PCB we wont need the arduino at all -- just the Ethernet shield and the atmega 328 from the arduino. However, that didn't work out this time around because of problems getting the Ethernet socket to fit nicely. Its clearer on this picture of the other side of the board: See how we had to cut a hole in the PCB for the socket? That took out some of the pin holes for the atmega, and a few tracks. Its not a big problem because we're going to iterate…

Beer fridge controller 0.2

Post author:mikal
Post published:December 23, 2009
Post category:Arduino

Further to yesterday's post about the beer fridge thermostat replacement, I've been hacking on ethernet support for the controller. This is handy because I'd like to log the temperature and compressor state over the network, because I'm hoping that can be used to make calculations about the thermal mass of the contents of the fridge, and therefore derive how much beer is actually in the fridge at any given time. Because the controller also supports more than one temperature probe, I'll also add more 1-Wire temperature sensors around the house so I can determine important things like if its hot in the outside world. The code is currently experiencing some bloat in the binary size, mainly because the ethernet library and the sprintf implementation are quite large. I'll have to think more about that. Here's the current code: #include <enc28j60.h> #include <etherShield.h> #include <ip_arp_udp_tcp.h> #include <ip_config.h> #include <net.h> #include <websrv_help_functions.h> #include <OneWire.h> #include <DallasTemperature.h> // Temperature sensor and compressor setup #define COMPRESSOR 9 #define ONEWIRE 3 #define HIGHTEMP 4 #define LOWTEMP 3.6 // 220L Kelvinator is 85 watts #define COMPRESSOR_WATTAGE 85.0 #define SLEEP_SEC 10 OneWire oneWire(ONEWIRE); DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire); unsigned long runtime = 0, chilltime = 0, last_checked = 0, this_check…

Beer fridge controller 0.1

Post author:mikal
Post published:December 21, 2009
Post category:Arduino

On the weekend I picked up a 220 liter beer fridge for $20. Its in really good condition (ignoring some minor rust in the freezer section), and the only real problem with it is that the thermostat doesn't work leaving the compressor on the whole time. Doug suggested that instead of just buying a new thermostat, we should build an arduino fridge controller. I'm not really a hardware guy, but once Doug had pointed me at the Dallas 1820 1-Wire temperature sensor, and lent me some resistors, it was pretty easy to pull the software side together. Note that this version doesn't actually do any of the compressor control -- it simulates that by turning a LED on. The compressor stuff has been delegated to Doug and will be mentioned later. You can see that the circuit is in fact really simple. There is a LED to simulate the compressor (with a resistor), and then the 1-Wire temperature sensor (with another resistor). The code is pretty simple too. Here's my latest fancy version: #include <OneWire.h> #include <DallasTemperature.h> #define COMPRESSOR 13 #define ONEWIRE 2 #define HIGHTEMP 4 #define LOWTEMP 3 #define SLEEP_SEC 10 // 220L Kelvinator is 85 watts #define COMPRESSOR_WATTAGE…